Camisole of Death!, revised

Camisole of Death! (c)severina 2006

Size 5 single pointed needles
Size 5 double-pointed needles
Row counter
Stitch markers

Yarn: The yarn I used was a 4-ply cotton/ramie blend recycled from a thriftstore sweater. A comparable yarn might be Rowan Handknit DK Cotton, 5-6 50-gram balls (this is a guess!). I'm tempted to try it in one of the denim cottons that fade and shrink. A heavy silk or shiny nylon would give it drape and change the look from casual to dressy and a tweedy wool could make it an alternative to the ubiquitous sweater vest.

Gauge: 23 stitches & 31 rows per 4"

Abbreviations
yo yarn over
Sl slip
K knit
P purl
psso pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
dec decrease
inc increase
st stitch
rep repeat
patt pattern

Sizes:....Sm.....Med......Lg
Bust......32"......36".......40"
Waist....28"......32".......36"
Hip.......32"......36".......40"

Measure length between waist and where bottom of camisole should be. There are 5 1/2" of decreases and 5 1/2" of increases. Subtract 5 1/2" from waist-to-bottom length and this will be how far to work pattern until decreases start.

Back:
Cast on 87 (99, 111) stitches and work 1" in k1 p1 rib.
Row 1: Knit 9 (11, 13) stitches, *yo, sl 1, k1, psso, K 12 (10, 8), rep from * 2 times, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k 26, *yo, sl 1, k1, psso, K 12 (10, 8), rep from * to end.
Row 2: Purl across all stitches.

Work pattern stitches until you've reached desired length and start decreases. Dec 1 st at each end every inch, 77 (89, 101) stitches. Work in patt for 1" without dereasing, then inc 1 st each end every inch. Work in patt st until piece is desired total length minus 1".Work in k1 p1 rib for 1", then cast off in rib.

Front:
Count total number of rows on back piece between ribbing. Skull motif takes up 40 rows so subtract 40 from total row count. This will be where you will start chart. There should be 2-2 1/2" of knitting (short rows that shape the front) after the chart so depending on how you want to position it you could start a few rows before or after your subtracted total.
Remember: In smaller sizes there will be fewer short rows. I had 100 rows on my back piece and subtracted 40 to get 60 rows but I started chart at row 65.

Cast on 87 (99, 111) stitches and work 1" in k1 p1 rib.Work front just like back until you reach your desired row number and work chart. On wrong-side rows the black squares are purled stitches and are knit stitches on the right-side rows.At the same time continue working front in the same manner (decreasing and increasing) as for back until you reach last row.

Start short rows:
Sl 1, k1, place marker, work in patt (including skull chart) to end, turn.
Sl 1, k1, place marker, work in patt to second marker, turn.
Work in this manner until you are left with the center 48 (51, 55) stitches unworked, then work in patt all the way to the end.Work in k1 p1 rib across all 87 (99, 111) stitches for 1", then cast off in rib.Short rows make stretchier decreases and are useful if you tend to bind off your stitches too tightly. Short rows plus the 1" of rib make darts across the bust much like in sewn garments.

Block pieces to size and sew seams together, darning in any loose yarn ends. To measure straps tie a 12" long piece of scrap yarn on the back piece where you want your strap. I centered my straps 9" apart. Put on camisole and pull yarn across shoulder to the front and tie it where you wish to place the strap in the front. Use this yarn to measure straps.

Straps:
Pick up three stitches with double pointed needle at the top of ribbing where you want your strap placed and knit I-cord the length of your piece of scrap yarn. Sew strap to back ribbing where you placed scrap yarn.

If none of this makes any sense let me know because I was designing it on the needles and it could just wind up being a mess.